UNIVERSITY OF MARIBOR FACULTY OF MECHANICAL ENGINEERING Diploma thesis Maribor, September 2015

PANTS FOR A SITTING POSITION Student: Study program: Study field: Lucie GÖRLICHOVÁ 1 st degree Undergraduate Academic Study Programme Design and Textile Materials Engineering Design of Textile Materials Mentor: doc. dr. Andreja RUDOLF Maribor, September 2015 II

I Z J A V A Podpisana Lucie Görlichová izjavljam, da: je bilo predloženo diplomsko delo opravljeno samostojno pod mentorstvom doc. dr. Andreje RUDOLF; predloženo diplomsko delo v celoti ali v delih ni bilo predloženo za pridobitev kakršnekoli izobrazbe na drugi fakulteti ali univerzi; soglašam z javno dostopnostjo diplomskega dela v Knjižnici tehniških fakultet Univerze v Mariboru. Maribor, Podpis: IV

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to thank to mentor doc. dr. Andreja RUDOLF for the help and guidance in the preparation of this diploma thesis. Most of all I would like to thank my parents who made it possible for me to study. V

HLAČE ZA SEDEČI POLOŽAJ Ključne besede: oblačila, paraplegija, hlače, konstruiranje, temeljni kroj UDK: 687.112.4.016(043.2) POVZETEK Osebe z omejeno gibljivostjo okončin imajo probleme z ustreznimi oblačili. Še posebej velja to za uporabnike invalidskega vozička, ki preživijo cel dan v sedečem položaju. Zato potrebujejo oblačila, ki so udobna, funkcionalna in pa tudi estetskega videza. Vsa oblačila, ki jih nudijo običajne trgovine, niso primerna za potrebe gibalno oviranih oseb, ponudba prilagojenih oblačil za invalide pa je zelo omejena. Čeprav je povpraševanje po prilagojenih oblačilih za potrebe gibalno oviranih oseb veliko, pa na slovenskem tržišču proizvajalcev takšnih oblačil ni. V tujini, predvsem v Evropi in v ZDA obstajajo proizvajalci, ki razvijajo oblačila za gibalno ovirane osebe in izboljšujejo svoje patente glede na izkušnje in predloge uporabnikov. V teoretičnem delu diplomskega dela je podana definicija invalidnih oseb. Posebej sta razložena pojma paraplegija in cerebralna paraliza, saj imajo osebe, s katerimi smo se srečali v praktičnem delu, tovrstno invalidnost. V nadaljevanju so prikazane hlače za osebe z omejeno gibljivostjo spodnjih okončin, ki za svoje gibanje uporabljajo invalidski voziček in jih najdemo v spletnih prodajalnah. Takšne ponudbe na slovenskem tržišču ni. Dalje so podane osnove konstruiranja temeljnega kroja ženskih hlač in viri o konstruiranju temeljnega kroja moških hlač za sedeči položaj, pomen virtualnega prototipiranja oblačil za sedeči položaj ter pregled stanja s področja raziskav o ergonomskem dizajnu funkcionalnih oblačil za uporabnike invalidskega vozička. Na področju razvoja oblačil za osebe z omejeno gibljivostjo okončin so opravljene že številne raziskave, ki so bile izhodišče za praktičen del tega diplomskega dela. Cilj diplomskega dela je bil razviti temeljni kroj ženskih hlač za sedeči položaj, ki bi omogočal uporabniku udobje pri nošenju oziroma celodnevnem sedenju v invalidskem vozičku in predlagati potek konstruiranja temeljnega kroja ženskih hlač po meri za sedeči položaj. VI

Praktičen del diplomskega dela se osredotoča na konstruiranje temeljnega kroja hlač po merah treh uporabnic invalidskega vozička. Za konstruiranje temeljnega kroja ženskih hlač je treba izmeriti glavne telesne mere in izračunati ali izmeriti proporcionalne telesne mere. Ker osebe na invalidskem vozičku ne moremo izmeriti v stoječem položaju, je bilo potrebno določiti dodatne telesne mere, ki se merijo na telesu v sedečem položaju. V ta namen so bile opredeljene potrebne dodatne telesne mere za konstruiranje temeljnega kroja ženskih hlač za sedeči položaj. Dodatne telesne mere, ki smo jih opredelili kot potrebne za konstruiranje hlač za sedeči položaj so: prečni obseg bokov, obseg bokov nad stegni, obseg stegna, obseg kolena (pokrčeno koleno), obseg meč, obseg gležnja, skupna dolžina sedala, višina pas stegno (spredaj), dolžina stegna, višina pokrčenega kolena (zadaj) in dolžina noge. Zato so natančno podani položaji in potek njihovega merjenja, ki so prikazani tudi slikovno. V nadaljevanju praktičen del diplomskega dela obravnava konstruiranje temeljnega kroja ženskih klasičnih ozkih hlač oziroma hlač za stoječi položaj in njihovo preoblikovanje v kroj za sedeči položaj. Pri tem je bil temeljni kroj ženskih hlač za stoječi položaj konstruiran na podlagi izmerjenih glavnih telesnih mer in potrebnih izračunanih proporcionalnih mer. Temeljni kroj ženskih hlač za sedeči položaj pa je bil konstruiran na podlagi izmerjenih glavnih, proporcionalnih in dodatnih telesnih mer. Konstruiranje temeljnih krojev hlač je bilo izvedeno na podlagi konstrukcijskega sistema M. Müller & Sohn, s pomočjo računalniške programske opreme OptiTex PDS. Pri konstruiranju kroja hlač za sedeči položaj smo se osredotočali na preoblikovanje linije sedala, znižanje pasne linije na sprednjem delu in zvišanje na zadnjem delu ter dolžino in širino hlačnic. Pomerjanje hlač za dve testne osebi je bilo izvedeno s pomočjo virtualne simulacije hlač na 3D telesnima modeloma testnih oseb s programsko opremo OptiTex 3D, katerih skeniranja so bila izvedena v okviru projekta Po kreativni poti do praktičnega znanja z naslovom ''Raziskave in razvoj funkcionalnih oblačil za paraplegike''. Hlače za tretjo testno osebo so bile realno izdelane in pomerjene. V poglavju rezultati z diskusijo je podana primerjava in analiza prileganja temeljnega kroja hlač za sedeči in stoječi položaj na obravnavanih testnih osebah. Rezultati raziskave kažejo, da so hlače za stoječi položaj, ki smo jih konstruirali na podlagi izmerjenih glavnih telesnih mer in izračunanih proporcionalnih mer, prenizke v področju pasu na zadnjem delu in previsoke na sprednjem delu hlač, v pregibu kolen so pogosto preozke in dolžina hlačnic znatno prekratka. Slednje nakazuje zakaj je kroj hlač, ki jih kupijo uporabniki invalidskih vozičkov neprimeren in neudoben za sedenje, kar smo potrdili tudi z analizo prileganja relanih hlač in virtualno simuliranih hlač. Na drugi strani pa so rezultati raziskave pokazali, da VII

je prileganje preoblikovanih hlač sedečemu položaju, tako realnih kot virtualno simuliranih, ki smo jih konstruirali na podlagi izmerjenih glavnih, proporcionalnih in dodatnih telesnih mer, veliko boljše. To smo dosegli z (1) znižanjem pasu na sprednjem delu in zvišanjem na zadnjem delu z vključitvijo dveh dodatnih telesnih mer, višina pas stegno (spredaj) in skupna dolžina sedala, (2) prenosom dveh telesnih mer, dolžina stegna in višina pokrčenega kolena, s čemer smo premaknili kolensko linijo in tako na pravih položajih določili potrebne obsege stegen, kolen in meč ter tako dobili pravo širino in obliko hlačnih ter dolžino hlačnic v temeljnem kroju do gležnjev. Na podlagi pridobljenih spoznanj raziskave o konstruiranju krojev hlač za stoječi in sedeči položaj je podan predlog za konstruiranje temeljnega kroja hlač za sedeči položaj po merah individualne osebe, z natančnim opisom posameznih konstrukcijskih dejanj in vključevanjem dodatnih telesnih mer vanje, ki so bogato slikovno opremljena. Namen tega diplomskega dela je spodbuditi proizvajalce oblačil, da razširijo svojo ponudbo izdelave oblačil po meri tudi za invalidne osebe in tako zadovoljiti potrebo po primernih oblačilih vseh ljudi. Ob tem pa se ne sme pozabiti, da vsak posameznik potrebuje poleg temeljnega kroja še njemu potrebne funkcionalne rešitve in estetsko dovršen kroj. VIII

PANTS FOR A SITTING POSITION Key words: clothing, paraplegia, pants, pattern making design, basic pattern design UDK: 687.112.4.016(043.2) ABSTRACT People with limited limbs movement have problems with finding suitable clothing for them. Especially wheelchair users, since they are spending all day in a sitting position. Therefore, they need clothing, which is comfortable, functional and aesthetic at the same time. The main aim of this diploma thesis was to develop a basic pattern design of women s pants that are specially designed to provide comfort when sitting all day in a wheelchair. Body dimensions were measured for three tested persons in order to construct the pants basic pattern design. The pants basic pattern designs were constructed for a standing and a sitting position. A comparison and fit analysis of the pants for a standing and sitting position was carried out and a procedure for construction of the made-to measure women s pants basic pattern design for a sitting position was proposed. IX

Contents 1. INTRODUCTION... - 1-1.1 Problem definition... - 1-1.2 Structure of the diploma thesis... - 2-2 THEORETICAL PART... - 3-2.1 People with disabilities... - 3-2.1.1 Paraplegia and cerebral palsy... - 3-2.2 Pants for disabled people available on the market... - 4-2.3 Pattern design of women s pants... - 9-2.4 Pattern design of pants for a sitting position... - 13-2.4.1 Virtual prototyping of clothing for a sitting position... - 15-2.5 Ergonomic design of functional clothing for wheelchair users... - 15-3 PRACTICAL PART... - 18-3.1 Determining of body measures required for construction of women s pants basic pattern design for a standing and a sitting position... - 18-3.2 Construction of women s basic pants pattern design for a sitting position... - 25-3.3 Fit testing of the pants basic pattern design... - 30-4 RESULTS WITH DISCUSSION... - 31-4.1 Comparison between women s pants basic pattern design for a standing and a sitting position... - 31-4.2 Procedure of construction of women s pants basic pattern design for a sitting position... - 42-5 CONCLUSION... - 48-6 REFERENCES... - 49 - X

LIST OF ABBREVIATION VT - Body Height OPa - Waist girth OBo - Hips girth GSe - Hips depth (waist to seat) VKo - Knee height SDHl - Outside leg length NDHl - Inside leg length ŠSHl - Front leg width ŠZHl - Back leg width ŠHlD - Width of the pants leg on the bottom edge OBo_t - Transversal hips girth OSt - Thigh girth OKo - Knee girth (bent knee) OMe - Calf girth OGl - Ankle girth V Pa-St - Height - waist to thigh (front) DSe - Total crotch length DSt - Thigh length DNo - Leg length OBo_at - Hips girth above thighs XI

1. INTRODUCTION Clothing plays an important role in our lives. Our clothing can show who we are and what status we have in society, and provide comfort and protection against external factors. Clothing becomes even more important for people with disability. People with disabilities may appear and/or behave differently. These people want that we see them for who they are, not to see their disability [2, 4]. One big group of the disabled people are wheelchair users. Not only paraplegics, but also people with cerebral palsy or some elderly people are limited in their movement and have to use a wheelchair. Because of constant sitting position is very important that the clothing is comfortable. However the clothing should be aesthetic and fashionable as well to make the wheelchairs users feel more self-confident. 1.1 Problem definition Wheelchair users have problems to find suitable clothes for them. Clothing that we can buy in most of the stores, is usually not appropriate for people who spend the day sitting in a wheelchair. Most of the disabled do not fit into the size system and they are forced to buy clothing items, which are one or two sizes bigger or rather smaller. They have issues basically with all clothing items from underwear to winter jacket. Another difficulty is bad or no access to the stores and small fitting rooms [15]. One of the biggest problems for wheelchairs users is to find pants that are comfortable, easy to dress and have at the same time an aesthetic appearance. The regular types of pants, which they can get in stores, such as: jeans, suit pants, chinos, etc., do not provide comfort for people, who spend all day in a sitting position. Besides the fact that the pants are usually uncomfortable, they can also cause their additional health problems, such as irritation and inflammation of the skin, or even pressure sores, obstruction of the blood flow, etc. Favourite choice of the female wheelchair users are sweatpants and leggings. The common problems with pants are pockets on unsuitable places, inappropriate materials (artificial and nonelastic), inappropriate fastening, pants waist on the back is too low and in the front too high, pants are often too tight in the knee part and legs of pants are too short [7, 10]. - 1 -

The aim of the diploma thesis is to develop a basic pattern design of pants, that provides comfort for people who spent all day sitting in a wheelchair and additionally to propose a procedure for construction of the pants basic pattern design. 1.2 Structure of the diploma thesis The theoretical part of the diploma thesis briefly defines who people with disabilities are, and a survey of the adapted pants available on the market is presented. Next part is concentrated on pants basic pattern design, virtual prototyping of clothing for a sitting position and ergonomic comfort requirements of clothing for wheelchair users. Body measures that are necessary for construction of the women s basic pants pattern design for a standing and a sitting position are determined in the practical part of the thesis, as well as remodelling of basic pants pattern design from a regular pants pattern design for a standing position to a pants pattern design for a sitting position. Three prototypes of the developed pants are made (two are made virtually and one is real-sewn) to analyse their wearing comfort on a tested persons. The chapter Results with discussion comprises analysis of wearing comfort of the pants and proposed methodology for construction of the pants basic pattern design for women in a sitting position. There is also conclusion of the diploma thesis and a list of references. - 2 -

2 THEORETICAL PART 2.1 People with disabilities Disability is defined as any lack of ability to perform an activity that is considered normal for a human being in a particular society. Person can be disabled from birth or disability is the result of an accident, disease, etc.. People with disabilities may appear and/or behave differently [2]. 2.1.1 Paraplegia and cerebral palsy Paraplegia is the paralysis of both lower limbs caused by a spinal cord injury. Spinal cord injury is usually result of some sort of trauma caused by accidents (car accidents, sports accidents, falls from high rise), but sometimes due to illness. Most of the people with paraplegia are completely depended on a usage of a wheelchair and every-day help from the others [5]. Paraplegia can contribute to additional health problems such as: pressure sores, complications with urinary tract, genito-urinary infections, thermal disorders, thrombosis, problems with blood pressure, respiratory disorders, cramps, etc. [5]. Cerebral palsy is defined as the term for a range of non-progressive syndromes of posture and motor impairment that result from an insult to the developing central nervous system. Cerebral palsy is not a disease but the result of damage to the developing brain [14]. The disorders of movement and posture are due to damage to areas of the brain that control motor function. The damage does not worsen over time [6, 14]. Difficulties with epilepsy, mental retardation, sensory and cognitive disorders, orthopaedic complications, communication, scoliosis (curvature of the spine), hip dislocation, uneven bone growth, and chronic pain often occur with cerebral palsy [8, 14]. Causes of Cerebral Palsy [14]: - causes during the prenatal (pre-birth) period: brain malformation, genetic syndromes, maternal infection, and anoxia (lack of oxygen), - causes during the birth process: problems with the placenta, maternal bleeding, maternal infection, complications during labour, - 3 -

- after birth (postnatal) causes: direct head injury or infections to the central nervous system (from encephalitis, poison, near drowning etc.). The study on the adults with cerebral palsy (CP) was carried out in the year 2000 in Sweden. This study focused on demographic data of 221 adults with CP living in the County of Stockholm and their subjective opinions about physical condition and training, with emphasis on locomotion. Results related to ability of walking and using a wheelchair were following: 27% had never been able to walk, 64% could walk with or without walking aids, 35% reported decreased walking ability, and 9% had stopped walking. Thirty-two percent of respondents did not own a wheelchair, 63% owned and used one or more wheelchairs,and 5% did not answer the question. Although 32% of respondents reported that they did not own a wheelchair, only 21% said that they never used one, the others stating that they sometimes borrowed one [1]. 2.2 Pants for disabled people available on the market Clothing that is available in stores is usually unsuitable for wheelchair users. Therefore, they need clothing, which is designed to fit comfortably and have aesthetic appearance. There are no producers of such clothing in Slovenia. There are some producers, mostly in the Europe and in the USA, which are making clothing for people with disabilities. The following is an overview of the online stores that are selling clothing for disabled people, focusing mainly on the offer of women s pants for wheelchair users: 1) Producer Rollimoden (Germany) [18] The online store Rollimoden offers fashionable clothing and accessories for women and men on a wheelchair. The women pants are from elastic materials and the cut of pants is adapted to a sitting position, Figures 2.1 and 2.2. - 4 -

Figure 2.1: Jeans for a sitting position of the producer Rollimoden [18] Figure 2.2: Chino pants for a sitting position of the producer Rollimoden [18] 2) Producer Adaptia (Czech Republic) [19] The online store Adaptia is focusing on different types of pants for wheelchairs users. They are selling winter pants, summer pants, jeans and leisure pants, Figures 2.3 to 2.5. All models have functional details that help wheelchairs users with their daily activities, Figure 2.4, and the cut is adapted to a sitting position. However, the pants in this store are not for somebody who wants to look trendy, since the visual appearance of the models is deficient. - 5 -

Figure 2.3: Jeans for a sitting position of the producer Adaptia [19] Figure 2.4: Detail of the jeans elastic waist + reinforced belt loop for easy dressing up [19] Figure 2.5: Functional winter pants for a sitting position [19] - 6 -

3) Producer Able2wear (United Kingdom) [20] The online store Able2wear is selling wheelchair and adaptive clothing for children, men and women. The women pants have fully elasticated waist, higher back and shaped seat with a dart, Figure 2.6. Figure 2.6: Pants for a sitting position with elastic waist of the producer Able2wear [20] 4) Producer Izadaptive (USA) [21] The online store Izadaptive provides the widest and without a doubt the most fashionable offer of the clothing for wheelchair users. The pants are made from stretch fabrics, do not have back pockets, waist band has hidden elastic band at the back and the cut of pants is adapted to a sitting position, Figures 2.7 and 2.8. - 7 -

Figure 2.7: Tight pants for a sitting position of the producer Izadaptive [21] Figure 2.8 Details of pants for a sitting position [21] Apart from these online stores, there are more stores to mention, such as: Wheeliechix-chic [22], AbleApparel [23], Rollitex [24], Endlessability [25]. However the offer is very similar to the first four online stores. - 8 -

PROPORTIONAL MAIN 2.3 Pattern design of women s pants There are different methods of pattern making design and construction of the garments basic pattern design, respectively. The German pattern making system named M. Müller & Sohn was used in this diploma thesis. Main and proportional body dimensions are required for making pants basic pattern design. Clothing industry is using a table of measures for pattern making design. For made-to-measure clothing the main body dimensions have to be measured, and the proportional dimensions calculated, alternatively measured on the human body as well. The equations for calculation of the proportional measures for pants basic pattern design using a construction system M. Müller & Sohn are shown in Table 2.1 [9]. Table 2.1: Equations for calculation of the proportional body measures for pants pattern design using a construction system M. Müller & Sohn. BODY MEASURES SYMBOL EQUATION Body height VT must be measured on the human body Waist girth OPa must be measured on the human body Hips girth OBo must be measured on the human body Hips depth (waist to seat) GSe GSe = OBo + 1cm Knee height VKo VKo = NDHl - NDHl Outside leg length SDHl SDHl = VT Inside leg length NDHl NDHl = SDHl GSe Front leg width ŠSHl ŠSHl = OBo 1cm Back leg width ŠZHl ŠZHl = OBo + 1cm Width of the pants leg on the bottom edge ŠHlD desired width of the pants leg on the bottom edge The pants basic pattern design is composed of the pants front leg and back leg. The pants front leg is constructed first, while the construction of the back leg is carried out on its copy [9]. The following is described and presented the construction of the women s pants basic pattern design by using the construction system M. Müller & Sohn, Figure 2.9 [9]. - 9 -

Construction of a women s pants front leg: 1) Draw a vertical line. Mark the beginning of the line as a point 1. Continue with applying following points on that line: 2) From point 1 to point 2 apply the GSe. 3) From point 2 to point 3 apply the VKo. 4) From point 1 to point 4 apply the SDHl. 5) From point 2 towards point 1 apply OBo + 3cm and mark it as point 5. - From points 1,2,3,4 and 5 draw a horizontal line to the right. - 1 st line is a waist line, 2 nd is a seat line, 3 rd is a knee line, 4 th is bottom length, and 5 is a hip line. 6) From point 5 towards right apply ŠSHl and mark it as a point 6. 7) From point 6 towards right apply OBo + 1,5 cm and mark it as a point 7. 8) From point 7 towards point 5 apply of the distance between points 5 and 7 and mark it as a point 8. 9) Draw a vertical line from point 6 towards waist line and mark the point where the horizontal line intersects the vertical line as a point 9. 10), 11), 12) Draw a vertical line through the point 8 and mark the points where the horizontal line intersect waist line, knee line and bottom length (starting from the top) as points 10,11 and 12. 13) From point 12 towards left apply ŠDHl 1cm and mark it as a point 13. 14) From point 12 towards right apply ŠDHl 1cm and mark it as a point 14. 15) Connect point 13 with point 5 with a line and mark the point where the line intersects knee line as a point 15. 16) Measure the distance from point 11 to 15 and apply the same distance from point 11 towards right to create point 16. - Connect point 14 with point 16 with a line. 17) Connect point 16 with point 7 with a line and mark the point where the line intersects seat line as a point 17. 18) From point 6 apply 0,5 cm towards right and mark it as a point 18. 19) From point 9 apply 1 cm towards left and mark it as a point 19. 20) From point 19 apply OPa + 2,5 cm (dart) and mark it as a point 20. - Draw the hip curve (in a solid line) connecting points 20 and 5. - Connect the points 18 and 19 with a curve. - 10 -

- To draw the front crotch, connect points 17 and 18 with a curve. - Draw the inseam by connecting points 17 and 16 with a curve. - Draw a dart. The middle point of the dart is in the middle of points 19 and 20, width of the dart is 2,5cm, length of the dart is 8 to 10 cm. Figure 2.9 Construction of the women's pants basic pattern design (left - front leg, right- back leg) Construction of a women s pants back leg: - Copy the pants front leg. Mark point 2a on the copy (in the same place where is point 2 on the front leg) - 11 -

- From points 13, 14, 15 and 16 measure out 2 cm and mark that points as 13a, 14a, 15b, 16b - Connect point 13a with 15b and 14a with 16b with a line. 21) From 2a upwards apply 3 cm and mark point 21. 22) From 9 towards right apply 1 cm and mark that point as a 22. 23) From 22 towards right apply ŠZHl and mark point 23. - Connect points 21 and 23 with line. Draw a perpendicular line on that line towards waist line. 24) 25) Draw a line, which is parallel to line 21-23. Apply the ŠZHl as long as the parallel line intersects a hip line. Mark the points of intersection as 24 and 25. 26) From 22 towards right apply the same distance from point 22 towards 24 to create point 26. - Connect points 26 and 16b with a line. 27) Connect points 15b and 25 with line. Extend the line as far as you intersect the waist line Mark the point of intersection as a point 27. 28) Connect points 11 and 27 with a line. Transfer the line on the perpendicular line (from 24 to waist line) and mark point 28. Connect points 27 and 28 with a line. 29) From point 28 towards the left apply 1 cm and mark it as a point 29. 30) From point 29 towards the left apply OPa + 3 cm (dart) and mark it as a point 30. - Connect the points 30 and 25 with a curve. - Connect the points 29 and 24 with a curve. 31) Connect points 16b and 26 with a line. Mark the intersection on the seat line as a point 31. - Draw the inseam by connecting points 16b and 31 with a curve. - To draw the back crotch, connect points 22 and 31 with a curve. - Draw a dart. The middle point of the dart is in the middle of points 29 and 30, width of the dart is 3 cm, length of the dart is 14 to 16 cm. The basic pattern pieces that are required for sewing of the women s pants are presented in Figure 2.10. - 12 -

Figure 2.10 Basic pattern pieces of the women s pants 2.4 Pattern design of pants for a sitting position Figure 2.11 presents three different male pants constructed according to the construction system M. Müller & Sohn [16]. The first male pants are classic one for a standing position. The second pants are halfadapted male pants for men, who are not just sitting all of the time, but are able to walk too. The last pants are for men, who are forced to sit in a wheelchair all of the time [16]. The pattern making design of these pants is shown in Figure 2.12. The differences between classic pants and the half-adapted pants are 16 : - front of waist is lowered and without darts, - back waist is raised and there are two darts, - there is a dart in the hips area that helps to adapt the cut to a sitting position, - there is a dart on the knee line of the back leg that helps to adapt the cut to a sitting position. The differences between the half- and full-adapted pants are 16 : - the waist back is even more raised, - the back leg is little bit wider, - all darts are wider to adapt the cut even more to a sitting position. - 13 -

(1) (2) (3) Figure 2.11 Classic male pants (1), half-adapted pants (2), full-adapted pants (3) 16 (a) Figure 2.12 Pattern making design of the (a) half-adapted pants and (b) full-adapted pants 16 (b) - 14 -

2.4.1 Virtual prototyping of clothing for a sitting position Virtual prototyping of clothing means a virtual simulation of real fitting of clothing in a virtual environment [10]. A 3D human body model is needed in order to virtually prototype a piece of clothing. PDS (Pattern Design System) systems offer parametric 3D human body models in a standing position, and provide to set their body dimensions. However, the adjustments of body dimensions are limited to the average body figure and the position of body is static (is not adaptable to the different postures of the real bodies). This represents complications for the virtual prototyping of clothing for people with non-standard body dimensions and postures and for a sitting people. Therefore, a sitting 3D body model is required, in order to simulate the real fitting of clothing for people in a sitting position [10, 11]. There are differences between virtual prototyping of clothing in a standing position and a sitting position. Due to a sitting 3D body model, it is necessary to determine folding of the pattern pieces. Only when the folding lines in the areas of the thighs, buttocks and knee are determined, a successful virtual simulation of the pants fitting can be carried out on a sitting 3D body model [10]. 2.5 Ergonomic design of functional clothing for wheelchair users People with limited mobility of lower limbs have to spend all day in a sitting position. Daily living activities, such as dressing, undressing, going on toilet, bathing etc. are difficult for them. Therefore, they mostly need a help of others. The clothing for people with limited mobility of lower limbs needs to be adapted in a way that provides comfort at sitting and it has to be easy to dress and undress. The clothing should not limit their movement (especially of the arms) and cause additional health problems. Some researchers in the field of clothing engineering carried out studies on ergonomic design of the clothing for people with disabilities [15]. A group of Chinese researchers focused on wheelchair users daily living activities related with clothing. They interviewed 58 wheelchair users about their needs and desires on the clothing. Based on the interviews, a set of functional clothing was designed, Figure 2.13. - 15 -

Liners and extra layers were added to keep them warm. At the inner side of the elbow the darts were designed for greater flexibility. It supposed to be easier to use a toilet with special design of the pants crotch, Figure 2.13 [15]. Six wheelchair users had tried the new clothing. The researchers measured and compared, how much time the test persons need for their daily activities, while wearing regular clothes, and the new functional clothes. Results showed that the time, which they needed for their daily activities, was reduced up to 50% when wearing the new clothing [15]. Figure 2.13 Set of functional clothing (pants, jacket and special design of pants crotch) [15] A group of Turkish researchers designed ergonomic clothing for elderly men. Human body is changing during the aging process. Body height decreases, body posture is changing, differences of the body dimensions appear, muscle movements slow down, motor ability decreases, etc. Therefore, there is a need on ergonomic clothing design of functional clothing for the elderly people [3]. A questionnaire was prepared and given to 120 elderly men in Turkey. The questionnaire contained questions about their health problems, clothing demands and needs. Based on the questionnaire, a two-part model of ergonomic clothing was designed, Figure 2.14 [3]. The model of clothing contains functional details to help elderly people with their daily activities. The pockets are adapted for more easy hand access, Velcro fasteners were used, buttons are in different colours than material, to make it easier to see them, the length of pants and sleeves is adjustable, nature and soft materials were used and there is a soft elastic band at the back of waist to provide comfort [3]. - 16 -

Figure 2.14 Ergonomic clothing for elderly men [3] - 17 -

3 PRACTICAL PART The aim of the diploma thesis was to develop a basic pattern design of women s pants that are specially designed to provide comfort for women, who spent all day sitting in a wheelchair and to propose a procedure for construction of the made-tomeasure pants basic pattern design. 3.1 Determining of body measures required for construction of women s pants basic pattern design for a standing and a sitting position Body measures that are required for construction of the women s pants basic pattern design according to standard ISO 8559:1989 for a standing position are [17]: - body height, - waist girth, - hips girth, - hips depth (waist to seat), - knee height, - outside and inside leg length. Since is not possible to take body measures of the wheelchair users in a standing position, the additional body measures, which are not defined by the standard ISO 8559:1989, were measured on a sitting body, such as: - transversal hips girth, - height - waist to thigh (front), - thigh length and - knee height of bent knee. For a good fit of the made-to-measure pants and construction of the pants basic pattern design for a sitting position, the following body measures were measured: - thigh girth, - knee girth of bent knee, - calf girth, - ankle girth, - total crotch length, - leg length and - 18 -

- hips girth (above thighs). It is important that the body measures are taken right. The person has to be relaxed and in the most comfortable straight seated position, while the measurements are being taken. The following are described definitions of the body measures and positions of their measuring. The body measure of the hips girth measured on a standing body, Figure 3.1 (left), is always smaller than a transversal hips girth that is measured on a sitting body, Figure 3.1 (right). Since the sitting position requires larger space in a buttocks area, it is necessary to measure the transversal hips girth. Transversal hips girth is the widest circumference of the hips in the sitting position, as shown in Figure 3.1. Figure 3.1: Hips girth (left) and transversal hips girth (right) Waist girth is measured on the place of minimum circumference of the torso, Figure 3.2. - 19 -

Figure 3.2: Waist girth and transversal hips girth Thigh girth is the widest circumference of a thigh, measured on the upper part of the thigh, knee girth (bent knee) is circumference of a bent knee and calf girth is the widest horizontal circumference of a calf. The measuring positions of the thigh, knee and calf girths are represented in Figure 3.3. Figure 3.3: Thigh girth, knee girth (bent knee) and calf girth - 20 -

Knee height (back) is vertical distance measured from the knee girth to the floor (measured on the back of leg), Figure 3.4. Figure 3.4: Knee height (back) Height - waist to thigh (front) is vertical distance measured from the waistline to the transversal hips girth, in the front of the body, as shown in Figure 3.5. Figure 3.5: Height - waist to thigh (front) Hips depth (waist to seat) is vertical distance measured from the waistline to the surface of chair at the side of the body, as shown in Figure 3.6. - 21 -

Figure 3.6: Hips depth (waist to seat) Thigh length is measured in the middle of the thigh, from the hip line to the knee, as shown in Figure 3.7. Figure 3.7: Thigh length Total crotch length is measured from the waistline on the front over the crotch and up to the waistline on the back, as shown in Figure 3.8. - 22 -

Figure 3.8: Total crotch length Leg length (control measure) is total leg lenght measured in the middle of the leg, from the hips line to the ankle line, as shown in Figure 3.9. Figure 3.9: Leg length Hips girth above thighs (control measure) is circumference of the high hips, as shown in Figure 3.10. - 23 -

Figure 3.10: Hips girth (above thighs) - 24 -

3.2 Construction of women s basic pants pattern design for a sitting position In order to show why the pants, which we buy in a regular store, are uncomfortable for a sitting position, and to be able to develop the new pattern design for a sitting position, and at the end to purpose the procedure for construction of the women s pants pattern design, we made: 1. Construction of basic women s pants pattern design for a standing position based on measured main body dimensions and calculated proportional body dimensions, Table 3.1 2. Construction of basic women s pants pattern design for a sitting position based on measured main, proportional and additional body dimensions, Table 3.2. The basic pattern designs of the pants were constructed by using the construction system M. Müller & Sohn. This procedure is described in the Chapter 2.3. The basic pattern designs of the pants were constructed for three tested persons, whose body dimensions had been taken, Tables 3.1 and 3.2. First test person was female with cerebral palsy. Her legs do not have equal dimensions, therefore, we measured both legs dimensions. Second test person was female paraplegic. During construction of the pants pattern design did not come to any particular difficulty. During construction of the pants pattern design for a third test person, we had to consider the bigger belly dimensions. Construction of the pants pattern designs was made with computer program OptiTex PDS. In addition, adjustments of the pants basic pattern designs were carried out according to the measured body dimensions of the test persons. The attention was focused on the waistline, shape and length of the crotch, knee line and pants leg length. The construction of the women s pants basic pattern design for the test person 1 is shown in Figure 3.11, for the test person 2 in Figure 3.13, and for the test person 3 in Figure 3.15. The basic pattern pieces of the women s pants for a standing and a sitting position for the test person 1 is shown in Figure 3.12, for the test person 2 in Figure 3.14, and for the test person 3 in Figure 3.16. - 25 -

Table 3.1 BODY MEASURES Measured main body dimensions and calculated proportional body dimensions. SYMBOL CALCULATED MEASURES (CM) TEST PERSON 1 TEST PERSON 2 TEST PERSON 3 MEASURED MEASURES (CM) TEST PERSON 1 TEST PERSON 2 TEST PERSON 3 Body Height VT - - - 164 165 150 Waist girth OPa - - - 65 66,5 111 Transversal hips girth OBo - - - 94 95 112 Hips depth (waist to seat) GSe - - - 25 24 23 Knee height VKo 31 31,65 28,3 Outside leg length SDHl 102,5 103,125 93,75 - - - Inside leg length NDHl 77,5 79,125 70,75 - - - Front leg width ŠSHl 22,5 22,75 27 - - - Back leg width ŠZHl 24,5 24,75 29 - - - Bottom girth ŠHlD - - - 32 35 43 Table 3.2 BODY MEASURES Measured main, proportional and additional body dimensions. SYMBOL MEASURED MEASURES (CM) TEST PERSON 1 TEST PERSON 2 TEST PERSON 3 Body Height VT 164 165 150 Waist girth OPa 65 66,5 111 Transversal hips girth OBo_t 94 95 112 Thigh girth OSt L 51, R 48.5 48 62,5 Knee girth (bent knee) OKo L 40, R - 38 40,5 41,5 Calf girth OMe L 33, R - 30 25 34 Ankle girth (bottom girth) OGl L 23, R - 23 20 23,5 Hips depth (waist to seat) GSe 25 23 23 Height - waist to thigh 16,5 (11 on V (front) Pa-St 12 13,5 side) Total crotch length DSe 70 68 78 Thigh length DSt L 35.5, R - 31 39 37,5 Knee height (back) VKo L 41, R 39.5 37 34 Leg length (control measurement) DNo L, R 81 72 Hips girth above thighs (control measurement) OBo_at 80,5 82 109-26 -

Figure 3.11: Construction of the women s pants basic pattern design (Test person 1) Figure 3.12: Basic pattern pieces of the women s pants for a standing (on the left) and a sitting (on the right) position Test person 1-27 -

3.3 Fit testing of the pants basic pattern design In order to analyse wearing comfort of the developed pants for a sitting position it was necessary to make prototypes of the pants. The virtual prototypes of pants were made for the two tested persons. The prototypes were simulated on scanned 3D body models of the real tested persons in a sitting position (test person 1 and test person 2). The tested persons were scanned within a project titled Research and development of functional garments for paraplegics 12, Figure 3.17. Virtual simulation of the pants appearance and fit analyses was performed by using computer program OptiTex 3D. The analysis of the virtual pants fitting was performed by using a tool Tension. Real sewn pants were tested on the 3 rd test person. Figure 3.17: Three-dimensional body models of the scanned tested persons 1 (left) and 2 (right) - 30 -

4 RESULTS WITH DISCUSSION 4.1 Comparison between women s pants basic pattern design for a standing and a sitting position Comparison between women s pants basic pattern designs for a standing position (blue colour) and a sitting position (yellow colour) is shown in Figures 4.1, 4.2 and 4.3. When observing Figures 4.1 4.3 the differences between pants basic pattern designs are clearly visible. An adaption of both pairs of pants legs was performed for the Test person 1, due to her various lengths and girths of legs, Figure 4.1. The adaptation of waistline, shape and length of the crotch length, knee line and pants leg length was needed for all tested persons. Figure 4.1: Women s pants basic pattern designs for a standing position and a sitting position - Test person 1-31 -

Figure 4.2: Women s pants basic pattern designs for a standing position and a sitting position - Test person 2 Figure 4.3: Women s pants basic pattern designs for a standing position and a sitting position - Test person 3-32 -

The virtual simulation of pants for a standing position and adapted pants to a sitting position for test person 1 is shown in Figure 4.4, and for test person 2 in Figure 4.6. When we take a close look on the virtual pants for a standing position simulated on a sitting 3D body model of the 1 st test person, Figure 4.4 (up), the pants seem to be tight in the thighs and the knees. This is especially significant for the left leg. The length of the pants is too long in particular for the right leg, since is smaller than the other leg. The pants front waistline is too high and the back waistline is too low. On the other side, waistline of the adapted pants to a sitting position, Figure 4.4 (down), is aligned with the natural waistline. The length of the pants is adapted, therefore, both legs seems to be more symmetrical. In addition, the pants legs are wider in order to provide comfort in the areas of thighs and knees. The same observations are found by using the tool Tension, Figure 4.5. When comparing tensions of the pants for a standing and a sitting position, higher tensions in the back waistline area, and in the area of the left leg were observed on the pants for a standing position, Figure 4.5 (up). By adaption of the pants to a sitting position according to body measures of the tested person 1, the tensions were lower and more uniform, which confirm that this pants provides more comfort than the pants for a standing position, Figure 4.5 (down). - 33 -

Figure 4.4: Virtual simulation of the basic pants for a standing position (up) and the adapted pants to a sitting position (down) Test person 1-34 -

Figure 4.5: Simulation of tensions in the pants - Test person 1-35 -

The virtual simulation of pants for a standing position and adapted pants to a sitting position for test person 2 is shown in Figure 4.6. Results of the pants fitting to a scanned 3D body model of the second test person are quite similar to the results of the pants for the first test person, Figures 4.4 and 4.6. Namely, the basic pants for a standing position are too tight in the thighs and the knees, pants legs are too long, the knee line is too high and the waistline is not aligned with the natural waistline, Figure 4.6 (up). New adapted pants to a sitting position, Figure 4.6 (down), appear to fit the scanned 3D body model much more comfortably. Length of the pants is adapted, knee line is relocated, the pants are loose in the area of thighs and knees and the waistline is aligned with the natural waistline. Using the tool Tension it can be seen that wearing comfort of the adapted pants to a sitting position is much better, Figure 4.7 (down). The tensions in the adapted pants to a sitting position, Figure 4.7 (down) are significantly lower than the tensions of the basic pants for a standing position, Figure 4.7 (up). The biggest difference can be seen at the area of the knees. - 36 -

Figure 4.6: Virtual simulation of the basic pants for a standing position (up) and the adapted pants to a sitting position (down) Test person 2-37 -

Figure 4.7: Simulation of tensions in the pants - Test person 2-38 -

The fitting of the sewn pants on 3 rd test person is shown in Figure 4.8, Figure 4.9, Figure 4.10, and Figure 4.11. When observing the regular pants for a standing position and the adapted pants to a sitting position some differences are visible. Length of the regular pants is too short comparing to the length of the pants for a sitting position, and the regular pants are too tight in the area of thighs, Figure 4.8 and Figure 4.9. The location of the knee line of the regular pants is too low, Figure 4.10, and the waistline on the back is significantly lower than the waistline of the adapted pants for a sitting position, Figure 4.11. Figure 4.8: Differences between regular basic pants (left) and pants for a sitting position (right) front view (test person 3) - 39 -

Figure 4.9: Differences between basic pants for a standing position (left) and pants for a sitting position (right) side view (test person 3) Figure 4.10 Differences between basic pants (left) and pants for a sitting position (right) detail of the knee line (test person 3) - 40 -

Figure 4.11: Differences between basic pants (left) and pants for a sitting position (right) detail of the waist line (test person 3) - 41 -

4.2 Procedure of construction of women s pants basic pattern design for a sitting position The women s pants basic pattern designs for a sitting position were developed according to the measured basic, proportional and additional body measures, which are described and presented in Chapter 3.1. In the Chapter 3.2 can be seen that is necessary to involve the proportional and additional measured human body dimensions into the construction procedure of the made-tomeasure pants basic pattern design in order to provide suitable and comfortable pants pattern design to a sitting position. Namely, the usual body measure of the outside leg length, which is the most important measure for the pants construction, cannot be measured properly in a sitting position. According to this measure the knee height is calculated and the proper position of the knee line is determined. Therefore, the numerous additional body measures are needed. Table 4.1 represents necessary main, proportional and additional human body dimensions for the construction of women's pants basic pattern design. Table 4.1: Body measures, necessary for the made-to-measure pattern design of the women s pants for a sitting position BODY MEASURES SYMBOL COMMENT Body Height VT MAIN Waist girth OPa Transversal hips girth OBo t Required measure PROPORTIONAL ADDITIONAL Hips depth (waist to seat) Knee height of bent knee (back) Height - waist to thigh (front) GSe VKo V Pa-St instead of hips girth (OBo) Required measure Thigh length DSt Required measure Total crotch length DSe Required measure Hips girth above thighs OBo_ at Control measure Knee girth (bent knee) OKo Control measure Calf girth OMe Control measure Ankle girth OGl Control measure Leg length DNo Control measure - 42 -

The following is presented the procedure for construction of the pants patterns for a sitting position, namely, those actions that differ from the classical procedure of pants pattern construction, described in Chapter 2.3: 1) Lowering of the waist line on the front leg. Measure upwards from the hips line the dimension of the height - waist to thigh (V Pa-St ) and draw the new lowered waist line, as shown in Figure 4.12. Note: Measure of the 1/4 OPa is changed. Figure 4.12: Lowering of the waist line on the front leg 2) Extend of the crotch on the pants front and back leg (2cm down and 1 cm outward, as shown in Figure 4.13.) Note: This action is not mandatory to perform. With it a comfort is increased. - 43 -

Figure 4.13: Remodelling of the crotch 3) Increasing of the waist line on the back leg. Measure the front crotch length. Calculate the difference between the total crotch length (DSe) and the measured front crotch length. For this difference extend the length of the back crotch and draw the new back waist line, as shown in Figure 4.14. Note: Measure of the 1/4 OPa is changed, therefore, the width of the back leg must be adapted, see pt. 4. Figure 4.14: Increasing of the waist line on the back leg 4) Adjustment of the dimension of the waist girth (OPa). Draw darts perpendicular to the new waist lines on the front and back pants leg. Measure out width of the new lowered - 44 -

front waist line (without darts). Calculate (¼ OPa) (width of the new front waist line). Apply the calculated difference on the new increased back waist line, as shown in Figure 4.15. Note: Darts on the front and back legs depend on the type of the body figure and dimensions of the body. Figure 4.15: Adjustment of the dimension of the waist girth (OPa) 5) Adjustment of the knee line. From the new seat line apply downwards the dimension of the thigh length (DSt). You get the new knee line. (as shown in Figure 4.16) Figure 4.16: Adjustment of the knee line - 45 -

6) Adjustment of the length of the pants legs. From the new knee line apply downwards the dimension of the knee height (VKo), as shown in Figure 4.17. Note: The knee height (back) is measured from the floor to the bent knee, Figure 3.4. Therefore, the pants length is to the ankles and the bottom edge of the pants legs should be prolonged, if necessary. Figure 4.17: Adjustment of the length of the pants legs 7) Shaping of the waistline, width and length of the pants legs. Check if the slope of the waistline running smooth from the front leg across the side line to the back leg. Check dimensions of the thigh girth, knee girth, calf girth, ankle girth, leg length and hips girth above thighs, Figure 4.18. Note: Pants for a sitting position should not be too width or too narrow that it would not cause additional health problems. If a person has the legs of different lengths and different girths, it is necessary to adjust the dimension of the pants legs to visually balance the body. - 46 -

Figure 4.18: Shaping of the waistline, width and length of the pants legs - 47 -

5 CONCLUSION Wheelchair users, due to their constant sitting position, have problems with finding suitable clothing for them. They need clothing, which is comfortable, functional and aesthetic at the same time. The diploma thesis focused on a research and development of a basic pattern design of women s pants that are specially designed to provide wearing comfort when sitting all day in a wheelchair. For this purpose a research about existing pants for a sitting position, ergonomic design of functional clothing for wheelchair users, and a virtual prototyping of clothing for a sitting position was conducted. Based on the research regarding body measures and construction of pants basic pattern design, additional body measures that are necessary for the made-to-measure pattern design of women s pants for a sitting position were determined. The pants basic pattern design for a standing position was adapted into the pants basic pattern design for a sitting position. For two tested persons, the virtual prototypes of pants were made. The pants for the 3 rd test person had been sewn. A comparison between the pants basic pattern designs for a standing and a sitting position was carried out. The additional body measures that are necessary for the made-to-measure pattern design of the women s pants for a sitting position are: transversal hips girth, height - waist to thigh (front), thigh length and, knee height of bent knee, thigh girth, knee girth of bent knee, calf girth, ankle girth, total crotch length, leg length and hips girth (above thighs). The adapted pattern design of the pants for a sitting position has lowered waistline in front and raised waistline at back, remodelled crotch length, relocated knee line and extended or shortened the pants legs. Based on the comparison of the pants for a standing and a sitting position we validated that the developed pants provide greater wearing comfort than the regular pants for a standing position. Based on the gained experiences, a procedure for construction of the made-to measure women s pants basic pattern design for a sitting position was proposed. This diploma thesis focused on female individuals, however, it would be interesting to research men s pants pattern design for a sitting position as well and a possibility of making universal pants pattern design that will satisfy the needs of all people on a wheelchair. - 48 -